The Museum of Islamic Art

The view of Doha's sky line taken from the MIA.

The next exhibit we were able to see was at the Museum of Islamic Art (the MIA). I have written about the beauty of the MIA building itself in an earlier post, but I took a  few more pictures of a portion of the building we had not visited previously. The design is such a beautiful work itself, that I am sure the building will continue to present surprises each time we visit.

I love this use of  reflection in the fountain. The building is surrounded by water too so the architect I M Pei has really shown his mastery of using reflection throughout his design.  

The exhibit we went to see at the MIA was "Hajj - The Journey Through Art"

This is the only picture I was able to take inside this exhibit. In this ornate, small tent, carried on the shoulders of four or more men, a prestigious person would be carried, but once they arrived at the destination of the Hajj, the Emir or Sheik would have to exit this carrier and walk along with other pilgrims because the belief is that all the pilgrims are equal. The pilgrims must also wear the same type of garment consisting of two white pieces of cloth to show equality. 

The pilgrimage to Mecca, I learned, was actually something that preceded Mohammed, but that it was he who purified it of false gods and icons of pagan belief. So many people today want to make the  journey, the participants have to be selected through a lottery. In earlier eras, some pilgrims would die trying to make it to Mecca due to the dry conditions in the deserts they had to cross.

As we left the MIA and walked toward the Souq, we could see again the dazzling light show of Doha's skyline 

Scenes from the Souq

Friday night we went to dinner at a Moroccan restaurant at the Souq. It was a pleasant evening so there were lots of people out. We sat on a rooftop deck for dinner and watched music videos and excerpts from Arab Idol along with the many people at the restaurant. The food was OK - not as spicy as I had expected.

The museum at night

Damien Hirst in Doha

On Friday, Stephen's one day off, we got to visit some of the art exhibits in Doha. The one that got a lot of press worldwide is the Damien Hirst exhibit. There was an article in the New York Times a few weeks ago about the art world's keen interest in the art scene in Doha. The Hirst exhibit was the focus of the buzz.

Hirst's ideas supporting his art are to me more interesting than the pieces themselves. 

One line from the literature about the exhibit - Hirst since the late 80's has "used a varied practice of installation, sculpture, painting, and drawing to explore the complex relationship between art, love, life and death."I was not allowed to take my camera into the exhibit, but what was maddening was that people were allowed to take pictures with their phones and iPads. This seemed totally unfair to me. So the pictures I have are of the reproductions decorating the lobby.

I liked the butterfly displays best, but hate to think he might have shortened a butterfly's life or reproductive capability by assembling so many for his very large works. Hirst has literally thousands of butterfly wings in the various arrangements, some like stained glass rose windows. 

Stephen wears his Pappy visor everywhere we go thinking he will create a series of  pictures asking, "Where's Pappy?" 

The installation enclosed in a glassed in area in the exhibit featuring a severed cow's head still oozing blood and swarming with real flies was repulsive, but I guess that is the idea. Just now it made me think of Emily Dickinson's poem, "I heard a fly buzz when I died." I think she uses the fly image in the same way - as a reminder that life goes on even in death, for surely the flies were feeding on the flesh of the cow's head. He also had an electronic insect zapper in the enclosure that, of course, would kill the flies that come in contact with it, so again a reminder of the interrelatedness of life and death. All of the displays of cigarettes and pharmaceuticals were also thought provoking.

One of his most iconic works is the series of dot paintings which are as he says a celebration of color and came from his "desire to overcome the infinite possibilities of a blank canvas."

This is the building erected for this exhibit, adorned with the iconic dots Hirst is known for. 

Museums, gardens and sunsets

Outside the museum

We did visit one museum in Old Muscat, one that was at one time a private home. We were not allowed to take pictures inside, but we saw lots of traditional daggers and sabers and old rifles  - all a reminder of how often this city was the site of armed conflict so that the winner could control the port. There were also lots pieces of jewelry - very heavy and ornately decorated silver worn by the women around their ankles and necks. Coral was a popular stone and it was believed that the red color kept evil spirits away. There were also examples of traditional clothing - different styles popular in different regions of Oman, but the styles were very colorful rather than the black that the women wear today. There were also household items - beautiful dishes and silver serving pieces.

We also visited one of the gardens in Muscat. This style of cupola adorned the corners of the garden walls.

We went to the garden partly because it was described as a good place to see birds. Oman is situated in the migratory path of many bird species  and was listed as a bird watcher's destination.  We saw this type of bird often, but have not identified him yet. 

At the garden, which is situated right in the city, we saw some interesting species, some familiar like the Great Blue Heron, but one blue bird that we saw we never have seen before, but I was not able to get a picture of one either.

The garden had some pretty areas, but unfortunately, there were many signs of neglect, especially around the pond. 

Trash - especially the discarded water bottle - is everywhere to be seen. The Middle East locations that we have visited need a "Don't be a litterbug campaign"- which was part of the Keep America Beautiful organization's effort to educate Americans to prevent litter along America's highways - it actually started in the late 40's. Visiting in the Middle East, where most people drink bottled water and where there are no recycling or anti-litter campaigns that we are aware of, makes us realize how successful the anti-litter campaigns have been in the US. The most disagreeable part of living here for me is that there is no recycling, so putting glass, and plastic in the trash along with fruit peels is very disconcerting. 

We enjoyed our visit in Muscat and were especially impressed by the enthusiasm for their country expressed by the Omani men we met. One cab driver was insistent that we come again and get out of the city to see some of the other beautiful spots in the country. Many people come here to dive and see the coral reefs off the coast.

We saw some beautiful sunsets from our hotel balcony.

Sightseeing in Muscat

Stephen, wearing his Pappy visor, at the Souq

We spent some time exploring the sights in Muscat, one of which was the Souq Muttrah. Shopping in the Souq is quite an experience. All of the shopkeepers call to you to take a look at their wares. Of course, the competition is fierce. There are many shops selling pashminas, so the bargaining is part of the process. There is also a lot of silver and another product they seem to specialize in is frankincense. Many have hookas - water pipes and decorated boxes, seen in the display behind Stephen.

This is the entrance to the Souq in Muscat. The Omani men wear full length white shirts and traditional hats instead of the traditional dress of the Qatari men which includes the gutra in white, or in white and red cloth and held in place by a black rope.

This is a picture I took at the Souq in Doha, so you can see the traditional dress of the men. I am amazed at how beautifully starched and white the gutras are. The laundering of these items would be no small chore. 

The juxtaposition of old and new is a common site in Muscat. 

I thought this mosque was really pretty. The fort behind it seems to be carved out of the rock.

This is the view along the corniche in Old Muscat. Sultan Qaboos' yacht and some traditional boats are moored in the harbor. 

This is as close as we could get to one of the forts. There are two forts on either end of Muscat Harbor. Here is some information from the Oman tourism site: Like the rest of Oman, Muscat’s buildings never rise more than ten stories - a longstanding decree by His Majesty the Sultan to ensure that the city’s magnificent mountain backdrop is never overshadowed by man-made structures. Rather than skyscrapers, pride of place on Muscat’s skyline are its twin forts of Al Mirani and Al Jilali which sit perched atop the headlands on either side of Muscat Harbour. They represent just two of the many forts and watchtowers from centuries past which can be seen on the mountains surrounding the city.

Along the corniche, men fish off the bridge.

I think the lack of sky scrapers is one of the most striking differences between Doha and Muscat. The buildings are almost all gleaming white and no taller than ten stories, so the city and the mountains behind create a beautiful site. 

We found one outdoor cafe along the corniche and had some hummus and Arabic bread and a Mango smoothy. There aren't a lot of outdoor cafes, at least at this time of year. Maybe more restaurants set up tables once the weather cools. Either that or it is a business opportunity waiting to happen.

The Grand Mosque

We visited the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque of Muscat, the third largest mosque in the world, and it is truly spectacular.

Unfortunately, I did not take a great shot of the whole building from a distance, but here is a link to a beautiful picture taken at night
You may need to copy and paste in your browser.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c1/Grand_Mosque_muscat.JPG

This is the room where the women pray.

The morning hours are the only times that non-Muslims may enter the mosque.

This is the main room of the mosque, where the men pray. A guide told us that the chandelier weighs eight tons. To get a sense of the scale, notice the people standing in the lower center. 

This place of worship is clearly something the Omanis are very proud of.

Beaching it in Muscat, Oman

This was our view from our hotel, the Crowne Plaza

We had a room on the top floor of our hotel which gave us a beautiful view of the beach and the city. Muscat today is actually a blend of three smaller villages that have grown together over the years; therefore, the city stretches for miles along the coast. The mountains in the background are made up of Plutonic Rock (rocks pushed up from below the earth's surface,  the name coming from the Greek God - Pluto - God of the underworld). The mountains are completely barren - nothing seems to be growing on them at all. From the air plane, they looked like miles and miles of ridges and valleys made up of chocolate cake mix.

The tides coming in and out create a dramatic difference in the beach. The water is fairly shallow for many yards. 

This is the view from the beach and looking in the other direction. The dark line shows the depth that the water can reach at high tide. 

The people on the beach do more wading than swimming, and we saw very few women.

Many people enjoy the beach fully clothed with pants rolled up so they can wade in the water.

There was a lively game of soccer going on one afternoon.

So much diversity on the beach. There are wave runners just beyond the swimmers.

I was one of a few women on the beach in a western style bathing suit, but even with a long skirt over it, I got a lot of stares. 

Stephen, dressed in his Pappy visor and tee shirt, was impressed by how high the water level rises.

Discovering Muscat, Oman

I returned to Doha on October 14, 2013, and got to see Stephen's new apartment. It is much nicer than the hotel and I look forward to spending the next few weeks here. But since Stephen had some days off due to the Eid Holiday, we departed from Doha and flew to Muscat, Oman, on Wednesday morning. We had been looking for a place to visit and originally thought of Prague or Bangkok, but then decided that these were too far away for a short holiday and decided to visit some place much closer, but so many of the places nearby are in such turmoil. I would have loved to visit Greece or Istanbul, but there is so much negative news about unrest and violence in these cities that we were afraid to go at this time. So we chose  a city very nearby that everyone who has been there told us is one of the most beautiful in the Middle East - Muscat, Oman. Never in my wildest dreams did I ever imagine touring in the Middle East as we are doing, but I find the places and the people and the cultures fascinating and beautiful. If you are wondering just where Muscat, Oman is, here is a link to a map:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.vacationstogo.com/images/ports/maps/367_w.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.vacationstogo.com/cruise_port/Muscat__Oman.cfm&h=613&w=700&sz=62&tbnid=u9mT0FzkZ3kSlM:&tbnh=93&tbnw=106&zoom=1&usg=__CuTzCl57FDY9LkV5JU0jTXgYWP0=&docid=GZq7rhbim54uSM&sa=X&ei=w61jUuXQN-eh0QW34oHoCQ&ved=0CHAQ9QEwBQ

This is a typical view of the houses and architecture found throughout the city

Reading about the city of Muscat before arriving, I learned that unlike Doha and Dubai, Muscat is a very old city due to the very deep harbor; one source said it is one of the deepest in the world. The location is mentioned by Ptolemy and Pliny the Elder and there is evidence that people have lived here since the sixth millennium BCE. Because the port or harbor is so highly desirable, the city was conquered by the Persians (the Sasanian Empire) in the third century CE, and by the  Portuguese led by Alfonso de Albuquerque in 1507. Once he conquered the city, he slaughtered most of the remaining residents, men, women and children. The Portuguese then occupied the port city for a century, but were repeatedly challenged by Persia and then bombarded by the Turks in 1546. The city was fought over by the Turks, the Persians, the Portuguese and the Omani people over the decades, but the Portuguese were finally defeated in 1650 by the Omanis.

This is a part of Old Muscat. We tried to climb up to the fort, but the stairs are blocked off.

Because of this history of struggle, the city has many ancient forts that can be seen in contrast to the gleaming white architecture of the more modern city. One of our cab drivers told us that all cab drivers in Muscat are Omani men, and they are proud of their city and show their enthusiasm for their home in their conversations with visitors. In Doha and Dubai,  cab drivers are typically from someplace other than Qatar or UAE.

Maybe because the city has such a long and proud history, the town feels much more settled and calm than Doha. We were there for the Eid al-Adha - the feast of the sacrifice- an important holiday in the Islamic faith commemorating Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son, and Allah's intervention to spare the son and provide a lamb to slaughter instead. So, among Muslims, the Eid is a celebration of children and family, and everywhere we went, people were in a festive mood and kept greeting us with the expression - Eid Mubarek - we think it is an equivalent greeting to Merry Christmas.